Two by Two

Wow. Now THAT is a rainstorm. I'm sitting in my hotel room in Stonetown on the island of Unguja in the Zanzibar archipelego listening to the single heaviest downpour of rain I've ever heard. The abundance of metal roofing amplifies the effect but seriously, the sheer volume of water coming down is unreal. Stonetown is a chaotic series of twisting alleyways on a triangular penninsula on the west side of the island. It is sometimes called the 'venice of africa' and today that comparison became more apt as the roads became canals. The roads here are too narrow for cars so it is scooters which take the place of gondolas, passing swiftly by - leaving soaked pedestrians in their wake.

I'm glad to be away from the beaches. Here in town I am very happy again, though I am still spending too much money.

I had spent the previous eleven weeks studiously avoiding the purchase of souveniers. My bag is heavy enough as it is and fairly tightly packed. But tomorrow I leave East Africa (destination Morocco) and who knows when I will return so today the floodgates opened. I went a little crazy buying crafts and mementos. I really have no idea how I will manage to zip (or carry) my bag.

The deluge has awakened the most agressive and fierce mosquitoes that I have yet faced. They are undeterred by the premethrin-impregnated clothing I wear and managed to bite right through!

Zanzibar. How to describe this place. It took me a distressingly long time to realize that the name 'Tanzania' is the conglomeration of 'Tanganyika' (the former mainland) and 'zanzibar' (the offshore islands). The two areas run as quazi-independent nations with customs and immigration queues between the two.

Zanzibar is a melting pot of Arab, Indian, and African culture. Zanzibar is predominantly Muslim while the mainland is mostly Christian. The islands are also home to much higher densities and numbers of Arab and Indian peoples. The architecture here is fantastic. Dilapidated but fantastic. And, of course, with influences like this, the food is superb. The area is reknowned for growing spices and the market is awash in aromatic scents.

I am beginning to feel like a real hunter, however, after each meal's exhilarating fight: arguing down the price of food from street vendors. This evening some guy seriously asked for 1000Tsh (83 cents) for a small slice of grilled squid. I couldn't help it, i laughed at him. As I walked away feeling sort of offended that I might look that gullible, he followed me: "How about 800 ... For you 600 ... Ok Ok, 400 ... Sir, Sir Only 200". I think local price was likely 100Tsh and I just couldn't be bothered to deal with someone asking 10 times that ammount.

Wheeling and dealing in the marketplace is extremely fun, however. And I am proud to say that my haggling abilities have improved markedly. The name of the game is pole pole - Kiswahili for "slowly, slowly" - one of the islands major themes. At 10am, I started a discussion with a guy selling cashews and finally purchased some at about 2pm. Sometimes it just takes 4 hours to agree on a price...

Listening: Rain outside, ceiling fan inside
Reading: Across Boundaries: the memoir of Mamphela Ramphele (anyone out there read this and want to discuss? I'm currently trying hard but having a difficult time respecting this "leading activist in the struggle against apartheid".)